3.
Combination Skin
This is the most common skin type. Combination skin is partly oily and partly dry. Usually, it is oily in the T-zone and drier on the cheeks.Oily and dry skin exist simultaneously because each skin condition occurs in a different layer of the skin. Combination skin varies a lot. This skin type can feel not only very different from one area of the face to another, but also from one day to the next.Your shiny T-zone: What’s going on?The truth is that each of your pores is attached to a sebaceous gland that produces oil. This is what keeps your skin hydrated and healthy, but also shiny. The glands in your T-zone work better than those on your cheeks and jawline.Why do you produce excess sebum on your T-zone? Genetics/ hormones: Androgens, like testosterone, are present in both men and women and are produced in the sebaceous glands. Studies have linked higher levels of hormones to an increase in oil production. Growth hormones are also linked to sebum production and are related to the development of acne.Age: You don’t grow out of oily skin, but your skin will slow down the process of secreting sebum as you get older. Also, as we start to age, our skin loses protein (collagen) so, you may have oily skin now, but you’ll need to keep your skin in check and re-evaluate it as you get older.Climate/ environment: Humidity can lead to increased sweating and oil production. Those who live in humid climates may be at higher risk of developing oily skin. You may be more prone to oily skin during humid summer months compared with dry winter months.All these factors play a role. Let’s be honest—you can’t change your skin type, but you can control your T-zone oil.Note: It is important to understand that combination skin is NOT oily skin. Some ingredients in skincare formulations for oily skin can be too abrasive for your combination skin, especially on your cheeks and jawline. Let’s be honest, from time to time you’ll need to mix and match products. We recommend going for formulations that are oil free and have a mattifying effect on your T-zone.If you are 35+ with combination skin, you can totally apply a rich serum or moisturizer on your dry areas and go for oil-free options for the rest of your face. Also, with combo skin you’d better stay away from products for all skin types as some may have, for example, significant quantities of oleic acid, an ingredient derived from olives, sunflower, and sea buckthorn that is comedogenic. You don’t want that on your T-zone.What acids are best suited for my “combo” skin?Acids are traditionally known for being keratolytic, meaning they help the skin shed dead cells. Acids will renew your cells, brighten your skin, and give you that glowing effect we love. But acids don’t only exfoliate; they also have other benefits like hydration, reducing pore size and can even help you fight the blemishes that may appear from time to time.We all have to deal with skin dehydration no matter what type of skin we have. In other words, a dehydrated skin is not a skin type, rather it is a skin condition: “Dry skin occurs when skin doesn't retain sufficient moisture. This can happen as a result of frequent bathing, use of harsh soaps, aging, or certain medical conditions. And for those in colder climates, it can stem from cold, dry winter air .” (www.health.harvard.edu)The secret is keeping the moisture in the skin! How, you ask? Meet your new friend, HA.Hyaluronic Acid (HA) Chances are that you’ve heard about the wonders of hyaluronic acid. HA has no exfoliating power, BUT it can hold around a thousand times its weight in water and trap that water in your skin. In other words, HA is like electrolytes for your dehydrated skin.HA is not like the other acids; it’s actually sugar that is found naturally in our bodies.Why should you use HA, even if you have combo skin? Because it helps you improve the look of your skin, prevents wrinkles, and plumps your skin and makes it look smoother. Seriously, there is no reason for you to pass on this acid!Glycolic acidGlycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), usually derived from sugarcane. This is one of the most popular acids there is, and for good reason! The magic of glycolic acid resides in its small molecular size. It’s the smallest of all AHAs, meaning it is the most common bioavailable and active acid. In other words, it penetrates the skin easily!AHAs work by “untying” the substance that holds dead skin cells to the top of the superficial layer of your skin. This means it exfoliates your skin, revealing a newer, glowing and brighter texture. But there is more! Not only your skin will look younger but using glycolic acid regularly will also stimulate the production of collagen and elastin which help your skin to heal quicker. Glycolic acid also reduces environmental damage; it’s truly your anti-aging ally!In a nutshell, here’s what glycolic acid can do for you:Reduces fine lines and wrinkles: first or superficial wrinkles—it can’t address deep facial wrinkles (someone had to tell you the harsh truth!)Fights discoloration: from sun damage, age spots, dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and acne scars. Important: if you have a dark skin tone, check with your dermatologist before using exfoliating acids, especially those considered most aggressive, as their use may result in dark spots on the skin.Increases your absorption capacity: exfoliating prepares your skin for better absorption of products and allows them to be more effective.Salicylic AcidIf you’re breaking out, you can use salicylic acid on oily areas in moderation, but you don’t want to use it on dry skin!This is the best known Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) and is usually derived from willow tree bark. This acid is different from the AHAs which are water soluble acids. BHAs are oil-soluble, meaning this marvelous potion can swim deeper through your pores and dissolve your excess sebum: can we hear a hallelujah? Salicylic acid belongs to the family of salicylates. It has exfoliating properties. It works by helping the skin shed dead cells from the top layer, and it decreases redness and swelling.Did you say blackheads, clogged pores, blemishes, acne, whiteheads, and inflammation? Salicylic acid is the answer!Remember: If you’re pregnant or allergic to aspirin you should not use BHAs. Some acids increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight. Apply SPF.A couple of “softer” ideas to explore or alternate for combo skin:Citric acid: This is another AHA that derives from citrus fruits, mainly lemons. It will help improve the texture and tone of your skin. It also has antioxidant properties. Use it in low concentrations. Not recommended if you have sensitive skin as it can be irritating (see below: skin conditions).Ascorbic acid: This baby not only has some serious power but it can also make almost everybody happy! This acid is also known as l-ascorbic acid, which is the stronger/ more potent form of topical vitamin C. It is a great antioxidant playing a key role in collagen production. It also helps inhibit the production of melanin, so it will help you fight discoloration and dark spots. Tip: **Do not use ascorbic acid in the same skincare routine as retinoids because the two pHs work at different levels. Using both products in the same routine will effectively cancel the others’ properties. Maximize your beauty game; don’t waste money!Ferulic acid: This one is not an acid in the traditional sense, rather it’s an antioxidant found in fruits and grains, but it will protect your skin from environmental damage, free radicals, and—wait, there is more—it has anti-inflammatory properties. You’ll usually find it combined with vitamins C and E to give it stability.Lactic acid: This AHA comes from milk and has exfoliating properties like other AHAs, but this acid’s little secret resides in its capacity to attract water to the skin, so it also acts as a humectant. It works well for normal skin because is less drying than the other exfoliating acids. This acid is less potent than glycolic, so if your skin does not like glycolic acid this may be a good choice for you. Lactic acid has a larger molecule, so it does not penetrate the skin as deeply, which means less irritation.Mandelic acid: This AHA is derived from bitter almonds and is a lesser-known and less studied acid. Like many acids, it will exfoliate your skin and renew your cells. Mandelic acid is softer and less irritating with larger molecules that penetrate slowly into your skin.Tartaric acid: Another AHA with a larger molecular size that works well for people with normal/ sensitive skin. This acid is naturally derived from grapes.Brown/Dark SkinIf you are a beauty queen with dark complexion, I’d go for Azelaic acid and/or kojic acid. Also, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) can be an issue for you due to your levels of melanin. So, if you want to fight pigmentation look for these ingredients when doing your shopping: Vitamin C, arbutin, licorice extracts, mequinol, cysteamine cream, N-acetyl glucosamine, tretinoin, Tranexamic Acid (a non exfoliating acid), niacinamide, among others…A word or two on skin types vs skin conditionsYou’re born with a certain skin type, thanks to your genes. Usually, that’s normal, oily, combination (as in your case!), or dry skin. In other words, we have a natural tendency. However, there are five main skin conditions that, independently from our skin type, we’ll experience at some point in our life for different reasons, including diet, skincare routine, environment, and climate.Five main skin conditionsAging skin | Dehydrated skin | Skin pigmentation | Blemishes | Sensitive skinRemember some acids increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight. Apply SPF.**This content is for informational or educational purposes only, and is not a substitute for professional medical advice or the results of consultations with healthcare professionals.**
